Rolex Submariner (No Date) Black Reference 124060

Description

Debuting in 1953, the Rolex Submariner marked a watershed moment as the inaugural diving timepiece resistant to depths of 100m. Engineered with a rotating 60-minute timing bezel, it aided divers in tracking their underwater duration, while its dial boasted luminous materials for optimal readability in murky waters. Initially, the Submariner emerged in stainless steel, sporting a black bezel and a straightforward black time-only dial. As time progressed, Rolex expanded its offerings to include the Submariner Date model, presenting diverse metals and color schemes. While specifications, features, and materials have undoubtedly evolved over the span of six decades, the fundamental design blueprint remains a steadfast hallmark.

Across its extensive and captivating history, the Rolex Submariner has woven an intricate tale laden with cultural significance and captivating details. Whether in its contemporary form or within the realm of sought-after vintage renditions, it has solidified its place as a pivotal cornerstone in any discerning watch collection. But what lies at the genesis of this iconic timepiece? Below, we delve into the inception and evolution of the definitive dive watch that continues to captivate watch enthusiasts worldwide.

Today, Rolex has transcended its identity beyond being just a watchmaker, embodying the epitome of achievement and luxury. Similarly, the Submariner has ascended to a higher echelon. It’s no longer merely a timepiece but akin to how The Beatles weren’t just a band—technically true, yet its influence shapes everything that follows, surpassing Rolex’s original vision for its pioneering dive watch.

Even within Rolex’s legacy of preserving designs over time, the Submariner stands as one of the least visually altered models in the brand’s history. Virtually every foundational physical aspect from the initial reference endures in the latest iteration, with significant changes primarily confined to internal movements. While its core blueprint has indeed evolved, the process has been deliberate and gradual, epitomizing evolution rather than revolution. This slow, measured approach highlights the advantage of getting things right from the outset.

• 1953 – Rolex introduces the Submariner dive watch.
• 1959 – Case increases to 40mm and crown-guards are added.
• 1967 – Switch from gilt to matte dials.
• 1969 – Rolex introduces the Submariner Date; first gold Submariner.
• 1979 – First sapphire crystal on a Submariner watch.
• 1984 – Switch from matte to gloss dials with white gold markers; first two-tone Submariner.
• 1988 – Switch form 316L to 904L stainless steel for the Submariner
• 2003 – First Submariner with a green bezel (ref. 16610LV)
• 2010 – Cerachrom bezel and Super Case design introduced.
• 2020 – Case increases to 41mm and lugs get redesigned.

The Rolex Submariner, despite its status as the world’s most renowned dive watch, wasn’t actually the very first of its kind, as is occasionally claimed. Depending on the interpretation, that credit could be attributed to either the 1932 Omega Marine or even the 1936 Panerai Radiomir, designed for the Italian Special Forces diving unit, which utilized Rolex cases and movements. However, it was another model crafted in collaboration with a different navy, the French, that can most plausibly lay claim to being the prototype of the modern dive watch as we recognize it today.

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was the groundbreaking model that established the criteria for a functional underwater timing device. Conceived by two military frogmen, Captain Robert ‘Bob’ Maloubier and Lieutenant Claude Jean Riffaud, who established the combat swimmers division for the French Ministry of Defense in 1952. Faced with a lack of appropriate equipment, they formulated stringent guidelines for a combat-ready dive watch.

Among the specifications were a black dial with high-contrast white indexes and hands for improved readability, an automatic movement to reduce crown use, a rotating bezel for tracking immersion times, and a sturdy waterproof case. Unfortunately for Rolex, which was developing along similar lines, Blancpain beat them to the finish by mere months. The Fifty Fathoms was introduced in 1953, the same year as the initial Submariner, but it wasn’t mass-produced until the subsequent year, debuting at the 1954 Basel Fair.

The Rolex Submariner’s journey began with the Reference 6204, widely regarded as its debut model, although some debate exists. It garnered instant acclaim and shared numerous traits with the Fifty Fathoms. The dial, either glossy gilt or honeycomb, featured a jet-black hue, hosting the same blend of dots and batons for hour markers, along with an inverted triangle at the 12 o’clock position, akin to present-day models. All were generously coated with luminescence (still radium during this era). The hands at this point were a plain stick or pencil type and had not yet evolved to the Mercedes style commonly seen on most Rolex sports models today.

Regarding the bezel, it marked 60 minutes but initially lacked hashes for the first 15. Subsequent editions included these, aiding wearers in accurately tracking shorter durations like decompression stops. However, there was a slight drawback.

Blancpain held the patent for the unidirectional bezel, designed to rotate only counterclockwise. Conceived by the brand’s CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter, a passionate diver, it served as a basic safeguard. This feature ensured that if the bezel was accidentally moved underwater, it would over-read the supposed time spent submerged, helping divers prevent the potential dangers of decompression sickness. With the copyright belonging to Blancpain, Rolex had to settle for bidirectional bezels until the 1980s.

However, Rolex possessed the rights to an arguably more significant innovation, one the brand enhanced specifically for the Submariner. Part of the mid-1920s Oyster case construction was a specific winding crown system, where the crown featured a gasket that would screw into a tube inside the watch case. It provided impressive protection against moisture and various debris that could otherwise disrupt the movement. However, for the newly dedicated dive model, a substantial upgrade was needed.

The result was the Twinlock crown, employing two sets of O-rings to create a pair of watertight seals within the winding stem assembly, allowing the Rolex Submariner to be the first dive watch rated for depths of 100 meters (330 feet).

The subsequent decade witnessed fine-tuning of the Rolex Submariner. Despite capturing widespread attention, there was still ample refinement to be done. Over six years, eight references of Rolex’s dive watch were released, some concurrently, each incorporating alterations to perfect the overall design. The models succeeding the ref. 6204 included:

Ref. 6205 – (1954): Slightly thicker case than the ref. 6204 and a marginally larger crown.
Ref. 6200 – (1955-1956): Thicker case with an 8mm crown, earning it the moniker ‘Big Crown’ Sub, waterproof to 200m.
Ref. 6536 – (1955-1959): Thinner case and a smaller crown, featuring the Cal. 1030 movement instead of the Cal. A296 or Cal. A260 found in prior models.
Ref. 6536/1 – (1957-1960): Nearly identical to the ref. 6536 but available with a chronometer-rated caliber.
Ref. 6538 – (1956-1959): Another ‘Big Crown’ model, also available as a chronometer-rated variant, achieving fame as the ‘Bond Sub’ after Sean Connery wore one in Dr. No.
Ref. 5510 – (1958): Similar to the Bond Sub, but the ref. 5510 housed the Cal. 1530.
Ref. 5508 – (1958-1962): A small crown version replacing the ref. 6536 and the first ‘Superlative Chronometer’ Submariner.

The Rolex Submariner had always possessed an elegance extending beyond its role as a diving tool. Its sophisticated simplicity complemented attire ranging from casual wear to impeccably tailored suits – a testament to the watch’s versatility. Notably, it found its most iconic endorsement in the form of James Bond. Agent 007 sported a Submariner reference 6538 in a total of eight films, pairing it with outfits from wetsuits to formal evening wear.

The first Bond film, featuring Sean Connery wearing the Submariner reference 6538, allegedly borrowed from producer Albert “Cubby” Broccoli, quickly established the timepiece as an integral part of the suave and gadget-equipped super spy’s image. The Submariner 6538 continued its appearances in subsequent Bond films, including From Russia With Love, Goldfinger, and Thunderball. Other Submariner references that graced later Bond films included the ref. 5513 and the ref. 16610.

By the time the 6538 retired from the Bond franchise, Rolex had introduced two other iconic Submariner references: the classic ref. 5512 and ref. 5513 in 1959 and 1962, respectively. These references are often regarded as the ancestors of the modern Submariner dive watch.

Following a turbulent start marked by endless design alterations, the Rolex Submariner achieved a sense of consistency by 1959 with the introduction of the ref. 5512. This reference amalgamated successful elements from the preceding eight versions of the Submariner, culminating in a watch that remained largely unchanged for the next five decades. The ref. 5512 featured a 40mm case, Mercedes hands, a redesigned bezel with complete markings, and most notably, the introduction of crown guards. Virtually everything seen in today’s modern Rolex iconic dive watch had its origins here.

Such was the success of the ref. 5512 that there was little left to do in terms of core aesthetics. Until the introduction of the Super Case in 2010, most major alterations to the Submariner collection revolved around improved materials, updated movements, or minor design tweaks. It wasn’t until 2020 that Rolex increased the Submariner’s size to 41mm